DIY Basics: Essential guide to chainsaws

Trees are taller than they seem and reach farther on the ground than you’d expect, but you can use an axe to estimate how far the tree will fall.

Hold the axe upside down at arm’s length, with the head about shoulder height.

Walk towards or away from the tree until you can sight the treetop just over the handle end, and the base under the blade.

The treetop will land roughly where your feet are.

This is just an estimate, so allow extra room if there’s something it might fall on.

Before cutting, check the crown of the tree for any dead branches that are partly broken but still attached, or broken off and tangled into other branches that support them.

If there are any such branches or other debris high up, don’t cut down the tree yourself as these can become dislodged and fall on you.

Check how the tree leans, if at all, and whether it has many more branches on one side, since this is the direction it will fall.

If there are any buildings, fences, powerlines or other obstructions in the felling zone, avoid felling DIY and call a professional instead.

Even when you’re sure which way the tree is going to fall, you’re still not ready to fell it.

Cut away any brush around the trunk and clear two escape routes on the opposite side of the tree to its direction of fall.

They should be about 45º away from each other in opposite directions.

The last thing you want is to trip while walking away from a falling tree.

The rule of thumb is to make the depth of the notch about one-third of the tree trunk’s diameter.

Try to cut the notch with a 60º angle on the upper face and 30º below.

The felling cut should be just above the apex of the notch and finish short of the notch, leaving an even uncut hinge to guide the rate and direction of fall of the tree.

To mark the notch before cutting it, first sight along the handle of the chainsaw until it is pointing in the direction you want the tree to fall.

Keeping the saw in the same orientation, bring the bar up to the trunk. Where it touches the bark will be the centre of the notch.

Mark the notch at a comfortable working height using chalk or by scoring the bark with the chainsaw.

TIP: You can shorten the stump after the tree has been felled.

Make the upper cut first, aiming for an angle of about 60º from level, followed by the lower one, which should be angled about 30º down.

When making the lower cut, turn your hand to keep a firm hold on the rear handle, controlling the throttle with your thumb.

If the second cut meets the first perfectly, the wedge will drop out.

If it does not, extend the upper cut and then the lower cut gradually until the wedge falls out.

The felling cut should be straight and at least 25mm higher than the notch apex, finishing just short of the notch and leaving a hinge of uncut wood to guide the fall direction.

Tap wedges into the back cut until the tree begins to lean.

Pull the saw free and walk away along one of the escape routes, keeping an eye on the tree so you can react if it deviates from the planned direction of fall.

Once the tree is down, it needs to be cut it into manageable pieces.

Start by removing branches near the base of the trunk and work your way up.

Stand on the uphill side of the trunk in case it starts to roll and rest the saw against the trunk to pivot the bar through the branch.

Remove the branches as soon as they’re cut so you won’t trip on them.

To cut off parts that are pressing against the ground, start by cutting downward through one-third of the branch.

Saw upward from below to meet the first cut. Be prepared for the trunk to roll or drop, even before you’ve cut all the way through.